Care of your pregnant, Australian Miniature Goat, doe

Care of your pregnant Australian Miniature Goat Doe

Continue your normal health and mangement practices on your pregnant does. Ensure they get their minerals and their usual feed for the first three months. Some breeders then like to gradually raise their feed until kidding time (take care not to overfeed though as fat can cause problems in pregnancy).

Correct feeding during pregnancy is said to ensure a healthy lactation. Studies by the Department of Agriculture concluded that supplementary feeding during pregnancy did not increase kid’s birth weight or survival. Like all things related to goats, there are many and varied opinions on feeding during pregnancy, so once again you will need to work out what works best for you and your does. Keep in mind that for a doe to produce well during lactation, she needs to be fed appropriately before kidding so that she is in good body condition when she kids.

An interesting perspective on feeding during pregnancy was discovered during a study on pregnant West African Dwarf Goats which concluded :
1. Goat foetuses do not grow much during the first 3 months of pregnancy.
2. The West African Dwarf doe does not need grain until 60 days after breeding.
3. Heavy concentrate feeding during late gestation leads to obstetric problems.
4. Reducing grain intake in the last month of gestation does not significantly affect birth weight.
5. Reducing grain intake in the last month of gestation does not significantly affect the kids' neonatal performance.
6. Supplements are the most valuable in the middle of gestation when foetal growth is most affected by it.

Goats always need to have the correct mineral balance, this is even more important during pregnancy. There are a variety of commercial licks available and recommendations for home made mineral mixes you are best to talk to your vet and/or local produce store to see what is recommended in your local area. Some breeders also recommend Apple Cider Vinegar be added to the pregnant does diet as this is said to assist in easy birthing. (Refer to Natural Goat and Alpaca Care by Pat Coleby).

In goats and sheep, pregnancy is maintained by the hormone progesterone. Progesterone in the ewe is produced first by the corpus luteum (structure formed on the ovary when an egg is shed) and then the placenta in the last third of pregnancy. However, in goats the sole source of progesterone throughout pregnancy is the corpus luteum. Stress which upsets the function of the corpus luteum will cause abortion. Such stresses include trucking, predator worry, yarding or unaccustomed animals and declining nutrition. Needless to say, you should always try to ensure minimal stress to your goats during pregnancy.

Further readings on feeding pregnant does, click here.

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False Pregnancies / Cloud bursts

A false pregnancy can occur when a doe's reproductive hormone system gets mixed up. Once in a while things get a little confused and the corpus luteum does not dissolve and continues to produce progesterone hormone for a pregnancy that does not exist. This can happen whether or not a doe was bred and the doe no longer comes into heat as her hormones say she's pregnant. Some does may correct a false pregnancy but the majority go to term. At term, the doe usually goes through the labour process and delivers a 'cloudburst', a cloudy fluid but no placenta or foetus.

There is thought to be no known predisposition to false pregnancy and no way to predict it. It is a seemingly harmless, self-correcting problem but you can waste 5 months waiting for kids that aren’t there! False pregnancies rarely occur back-to-back.

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Development of the goat foetus

The development of the foetus in goats takes 145-155 days from implantation of the egg in the uterus to birth.

By the 20th day the heartbeat is apparent. Limb buds or segments can be seen between 28 and 35 days.
By the 35th day the abdominal wall has closed and between the 35th and 42nd days one can differentiate the digits from the limb bud. The mouth, nostrils and dewclaws can also be seen. A genital "bump" has appeared if the embryo is female or a penile sheath if it is male. The top of the brain can be viewed thru the soft membrane that is now functioning as the top of the skull.
At the end of the 42nd day the embryo enters the stage of the foetus.

During the 41st thru 49th days mammary buds appear in the female foetus or an empty scrotal sac in the male. Through the transparent pink coloured skin the jugular vein is barely visible. One can also distinguish the nostrils and eyes from the rest of the head.
Between the 49th and 56th day the eyelids close and the ear canal opens. The top of the head is still a soft membrane in the centre but it is beginning to harden from the outside.
At 60 days the jugular & facial vein as well as the scrotal vessels are easily visible and the nostrils have opened by the 63rd day.
Fine hair appears on the eyelids at 70 to 77 days.
Between 77 days and 84 days the horn pits can be seen and by the 84th day the ear vein is prominent and hair has appeared on the muzzle.

By the 90th day hairs can also be seen on the forehead, there is now pigmentation around the horn pits, and the testes (if the foetus is male) can be felt in the scrotum by the 91st day.
Between the 91st and 98th day the skin becomes thicker and whitish. The jugular, facial and scrotal veins are no longer visible, the ear vein however can still be seen. Hairs are now growing along the top of the neck and the top of the head has hardened. Hairs begin to grow on the chest, the eyelids separate and temporary teeth buds begin to appear. Hair is growing around the eyes and muzzle as well.
Between the 112th and 126th days the entire body, except the limbs, are sparsely covered with fine hair. Dense hairs cover the entire body including the limbs and the teeth buds are prominent by the 140th day. 1-3 incisors are barely erupted in females and they are at the gum line in males at 145-155 days.

The kid is born between 145 and 155 days. The more kids in the birth the less each kid will weigh. A doe will generally have between 1 and 3 kids at a time. The "normal" presentation is front feet first with the head lying on the front legs. The doe's uterus has two distinct horns or sides where she carries her kids. After the kids are born she expels an after birth mass from each horn and her gestation is complete.

Adapted from "Foetal Age Estimation in Sheep & Goats," M.N. Sivchelvan, M. Ghali Ali, G.A. Chibuzo, Small Ruminant Research, The Journal of the International Goat Association, Volume 19/1 (1996), Elsevier Science.

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Preparation for kidding - One week before due date.

1. Trim your finger nails and keep them short and clean in case you need to assist, although most deliveries occur naturally and without intervention.
2. If you plan on having a delivery/maternity pen, clean and prepare it.
3. A few days before the doe is due, put her in the maternity pen so she can get used to it and just in case she delivers earlier than expected. Avoid moving the doe on the day of kidding to avoid unnecessary stress.

4. Keep checking the doe's tail ligaments. These are located on either side of her spine about halfway between where her back starts to slope down and her tail. The ligaments feel like they start at the spine and then slant down toward her pin bones. Each doe's ligaments can feel a little different so get used to how your doe/s feel well before kidding. As the birth nears, the ligaments loosen. At first they will feel hard, like pencils. They will gradually start to soften and once they're 'gone' labour is close at hand. Get used to running your hand down your doe's spine to check the ligaments and the raising of the tail head. Once you no longer feel the ligaments the doe will probably kid within 12 hours.

Note: We have found with most first fresheners or second timers that their tail ligaments are quite tight up until 12-24 hours before kidding when they 'go' quickly, the change is very obvious. With many older does this is still the same, although we have some older does whose ligaments become very soft up to several weeks before kidding. Many would think these are 'gone' but if you are experienced at feeling your doe's ligaments we have found there is still a difference within 12-24 hours of kidding when they are truely 'gone'.

5. Keep an eye on her tail head. You will find that the tail head rises as the doe gets closer to labour. You can feel the change in her tail head when you check the doe's ligaments. Close to kidding you will generally find you can basically close your fingers around the tail head.

At Just Kiddin, we have had 100% success rate over the past 4 years in predicting the time of labour using this method. Each doe has kidded within 12 hours of her ligaments being fully 'gone'.

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Signs of Labour

As much as it would be nice to say exactly what to look for when your doe is going into labour, your doe may show any, all, or none of these signs, every does is different. There is no guarantee what your particular doe will do, you just have to learn her particularities as you go by experience and observation. The best way to tell if your doe is going into labour is to know your particular doe and look for anything out of the ordinary. If this is the first time you have seen your doe kid, take notes. Most does behave similarly from one kidding to the next.

Over the years we have gotten to know most of our older does peculiarities. One likes to go into labour very early in the morning to avoid company, all of the others like to wait until they know company/help is at hand, some will call constantly until we go to keep them company, one even likes us to hold her leg as extra assurance that we are close.

What you might look for:
Ligaments are gone. (see above).
The doe's tail head is noticeably raised. You can practically put your fingers all the way around the spine right before the tail.
Far away look in the doe's eyes.
Appears restless.
Teeth grinding (discomfort).
Breathing faster than usual.
Vocalises more, or less, than usual.
Avoids eating and/or drinking.
Eyes wide / luminous. The whites of eye may get slightly bloodshot.
Pawing at or smelling the ground.
Stretching, standing up on things with front legs (getting the kid/s into position).
Pawing at the ground / bedding (making a nest).
Laying down, getting up, laying down, getting up, laying down, getting up....
Long clear string of “goob” (mucous) hanging from the doe's vagina. (The doe can start having small amounts of white discharge up to a month before kidding). If the discharge is yellowish, kidding should happen very soon.
The doe's udder is full and tight. You can generally feel the difference within 12-24 hours of kidding.
The area around the vulva which is normally 'fleshy' during pregnancy looks comparativley flat, shrivelled - kidding is getting close.
The doe may start talking to her babies.
The doe may do a lot of stretching and/or yawning.
The doe may look 'sunken', hollow flanked
If the doe does anything that is out of the normal, or you have not seen her do before.
Acting weird.

The expected due date is 150 days after breeding, although 145-155 is within normal boundaries. At the end of gestation, physical changes should be obvious in the doe's udder, pelvic ligaments and vulva. Genetic, hormonal and nutritional differences make mammary system development unique to each doe in each pregnancy. The udder may begin to increase in size as early as two months into the pregnancy, but some develop little until just before, or after, birth. Udder development in other pregnancies may differ, as foetal numbers/genders in the kidding influence udder development and milk quantity in each lactation. Under the same feeding and management conditions, there is more udder development in does carrying multiple males rather than singles or multiple females. A day or two before birth the pelvic ligaments at the base of the tail relax so that the tail feels loose. Frequent urination and low pitched bleating are also signs that labour will begin within a day or two.

The perineum, the hairless area around the vulva, often bulges during the last month of gestation. Within 24 hours of birth, this bulge subsides somewhat, and the vulva loses tone and appears longer and more flat.

As the cervix begins to dilate, the cervical seal liquefies and leaks from the vulva. This discharge is not always a reliable sign, as an occasional doe can pass the entire thick cervical plug stuck to the first amniotic sac. The quantity, consistency and colour of the discharge, and the length of time a doe passes it are all highly variable, although individuals tend to repeat this and other behaviour and physical signs in subsequent parturitions. (It is very helpful to record all physical and behavioural signs in a notebook for review before a doe's next birth). The normal discharge is typically thin and clear, the same colour and consistency as raw egg white. As first stage proceeds, it becomes thicker and streaked with white. When delivery is getting pretty close, it is thick and yellowish-tan. Unusual discharges may or may not indicate trouble, but stay alert for potential problems. A slightly blood-tinged discharge usually means that the birth is close.

Second stage labour consists of the doe's expulsive efforts and delivery of all kids. Uterine contractions and weak abdominal presses (contractions) become more intense and closer together. During uterine contractions in first stage labour, a doe may briefly stretch and raise her tail over her rump or lie down and momentarily hold her breath. As hard labour begins with abdominal presses, she usually lies down on one side and extends one or both hind legs and may bellow with each effort. Some does stand or squat to contract and deliver. If you time contractions, do not be alarmed by short resting intervals. General progress is the important feature.

The cervix is usually open, or mostly so, when a fluid-filled sac appears. In the uterus, the kid is enclosed in an amniotic sac that is surrounded by a water sac. Usually the water sac bursts 30 minutes to 2 hours before the delivery of the first kid. The amniotic sac might burst a few minutes before delivery. Usually, a kid will be born front legs and head first, and no assistance is needed. In multiple births, normal timing between one kid and the next can be extremely variable, each kid is usually delivery 5-30 minutes after the previous sibling but could be longer, and the placenta is expelled a few hours later. Most does pass the first placenta within 2 hours after the last kid, and all should have been expelled by about 3 hours.

If the kids haven't arrived within 2 hours after the water sac breaks, or if the kid is not positioned properly, an experienced goat breeder or a veterinarian might be required to assist in the delivery by repositioning the kid or pulling the kid out.

Most does kid very easily and often while the new goat owner is in a panic wondering what to do, the kid/s will already be on the ground.

Contractions of the uterine muscle first lifts the foetus into the pelvic inlet, then abdominal muscle contractions add more force to expel the kids. A complex set of hormonal events directs all of this. Inertia may develop during first or second stage labor, and there are two distinct forms. Primary inertia is due to failure of the uterine muscle to work sufficiently due to a variety of physical or hormonal reasons. Secondary inertia is the result of dystocia or exhaustive labour.

Primary inertia is the most common of the two types in litter-bearing species. Stress interferes with hormone interaction near and during birth. Oxytocin is the pituitary hormone responsible for uterine contractions and the milk let-down response during nursing. Epinephrine released by a stressed doe cancels the effects of oxytocin, and the doe is unable to contract. In slow or unproductive labour, ask yourself if the doe is nervous. Some does shut down labour when they are moved to different surroundings. If she does not calm down in a new location within an hour, return her to her usual habitat. Over-anxious owners who fuss and make noise can also be very stressful to the doe in labour.

For further great information on signs of labour, check out this site.

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Kidding Info

Most goats give birth easily and do not require any attention (and some prefer that), but it is worth being prepared so you can assist if required.
Be prepared, do your homework so you can remain calm when the time arrives.
It is a good idea to have the number of your local vet or another experienced breeder on hand - in case of an emergency.
Know when your doe is due to kid. It should approximately 150 days after the date she was serviced. This is the typical gestation period but that doesn't mean that a perfectly healthy doe wont go earlier or later and that this is no reason for concern.
Have a quiet, clean & dry kidding pen ready for the doe to birth her kids in, unless you are planning to leave the doe to birth in the paddock or wherever she sees fit. If you plan to have a kidding pen it is generally a good idea to move the doe in a day or two before kidding so the move does not stress her out during labour.
Get to know the indicators of labour. See 'Signs of Labour' above.
Develop an understanding, before the labour begins, of what you expect to see and what is happening. If you havent viewed a birth previously, check out the internet or our birthing photos to get an idea of what a normal/typical birth looks like, this way you are more likely to act quickly, if there is a problem.
Study kidding position pictures on the web. Get a picture in your mind of how the kid/s should be positioned inside the doe. If there is a problem and you need to assist, it is best to have an idea beforehand of what you need to do and how so that you do not panic and can respond calmly and confidently.

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A normal birth

To view birthing photos, go to our Australian Miniature Goat birthing page. Please be aware that these are quite graphic photos and the page will take some time to download due to the number and size (to enable sufficient detail to be viewed). For these reasons this page will open in a seperate browser window.

It is worth stating that the Australian Miniature Goat is generally a robust breed that gives birth normally without any assistance. Many breeders quite successfully leave their animals in the paddock to birth naturally. Other breeders like to be much more involved in the actual birth process. This is entirely a personal choice and will often depend on your herd. Animals that have not been hand raised often prefer to ‘do it on their own’ and too much interaction from you only causes unnecessary stress (unless of course there is a problem with the birth and it is necessary). Hand raised animals on the other hand often enjoy the comfort of having you close at hand. The information below relates specifically to the latter scenario and again some breeders may or may not choose to be involved in all of these steps.

The doe can give birth standing up or laying down, it depends on the doe, and both are normal.

When the doe goes into the final stages of labour and really starts to push, the first thing you would normally see is a bubble appear. When it appears enough, you can see inside it looking for the hooves which will be small and white. There may be only one hoof visible at first, but eventually you should see a second hoof. Ideally you will then see the muzzle which should be resting above the hooves, the tongue will usually be sticking out of the mouth. The bubble may break at any stage. The hardest part for the doe is pushing the head out, although once it is clear the rest of the kid usually comes out very quickly. The doe should very quickly begin to clean her kid and start to bond with it. If there are multiple kids, the second and/or third will generally come out fairly quickly after the first. Sometimes if the mother is not paying complete attention to the first kid, it is because there is another on the way.

Each kid must have its ration of colostrum, the first thick milk that contains the antibodies for that kid; it also has a laxative action that makes the kid pass the first black manure, the meconium. The suckling also helps stimulate the mother to pass the afterbirth if this has not already happened.

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Assisting the birth

If the labour is not progressing normally, you may have to assist.
If you are inexperienced, it is can be helpful to have someone experienced help you the first time you try to assist. Think about what is going on and therefore what you might need to do. Above all, remain calm. If you are stressed and nervous, the doe can sense this and may become more stressed herself. If you think you need to help pull the kid, pull only when the doe pushes. Try to picture what is happening - you need to get the head & shoulders through the cervical opening. It is generally adviseable not to pull both legs together (first make sure both legs are from the same kid!). Pull one leg, then the other, one leg more in front of the other. Don't pull straight ... you should pull at a downward angle (as if the doe is standing). Don't forget to stop pulling when the doe stops pushing. This can take time. Whilst you have the legs, try to ascertain if they are the front or rear legs, you can generally tell from the hoof structure and which way the toes are pointing. You should have the front feet, if not, then it is a breech birth.

A kid in an incorrect position is the most likely reason for you to need to assist. Trim your nails in advance and ensure your hands and forearms are well cleaned, and preferably cleansed with something like iodine. You can also use disposable gloves. Make sure you lubricate your hands before trying to enter the doe with a proper lubricant/vegetable oil. Start slowly, gently insert a finger so you can feel what is happening. Try to work out where the legs are, if they are front or back legs, where is the head, is it above or below the legs, are all parts from the one kid. Once you have developed an image in your mind of how the kid/s are positioned you will have a better idea of how to proceed. Insert more fingers slowly and gently as appropriate (this can depend on you (and the doe's size). Understand what you may need to do beforehand. (Refer Kid Positions below). If you go inside your doe, you will most likely need to treat her with a course of antibiotics to ward off infection (refer to your local Vet). Always take great care if going inside your doe, you do not want to rush or be forceful as you do not want to cause any injury to your doe. If you are unsure, call your vet.

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After the birth

If the doe is not paying attention to her kid, it may be because she is focussed on a second or third kid that is still on its way, particularly if she is not keen on the first kid attempting to sickle. Often they will lick the new kid tentatively whilst seeming a little distracted. Watch her behaviour and you will generally pick up that another might be on its way. Just keep an eye on the new kid as sometimes the dam will end up almost lying on it as she tries to keep close whilst being distracted by the process of delivering her subsequent kid/s. If this happens, gently move the kid out of harms way, but leave it close enough for mum to lick and not to get distressed.

Although most births take place normally and require no physical assistance, you should appreciate the stresses a new dam may face. Many first time dam's click into motherhood immediately and automatically do all the right things - clean the kid, encourage it to suckle etc, others don't have any idea what has just happened. She may have had no realisation that she was pregnant and might even have thought that the pains she experienced were a really difficult poo. Natural instinct usually kicks in, but very occassionally this instinct does not kick-in until after the birth, and sometimes not at all. The dam may lay there feeling sorry for herself thinking how painful that was, quite oblivious to the kid/s that need cleaning off and feeding. This is one reason that we like to attend all of the births of our first timers in particular, although this is not always restricted to first timers, experienced does may not have their instinct kick in straight away either.

The first thing you should do is to ensure the new mother is attending to and cleaning her kid. Usually, the doe will lick the kid to remove mucous and stimulate its breathing. If we are in attendance at the birth and particularly if the birth has been difficult, the kid is weak or the mother inattentive, we make sure the kid is freed from the amniotic sac and that the muzzle is clear of mucous so that there is no risk of the kid inhaling any. Cleaning the kid/s is where the bonding starts and is very important (not only between doe and kid/s but the kid/s and humans). If the doe is not cleaning her kid, get some of the birthing fluids from the kid and rub it on the dam's nose. She should lick it to remove it from her nose. Most times this is enough to give her the idea to start cleaning the kid herself. Gently direct her towards the kid so she can start cleaning. You can assist her to clean the baby, but make sure you do not interfere with the bonding that is going on between the dam and her kid/s. If the kid is born in cold weather we often help clean and dry the kid with towels so that it warms up as quickly as possible. A cold kid is less enthusiastic about feeding, which will help it warm further so that it can start to regulate its own body warmth. If you have assisted you will usually find that the doe will start to clean your hands as well as the kid/s as the scent will be the same.

Kids can become infected with diseases via the navel/umbilical cord. You can reduce the risk of this by dipping the navel cord in tincture of iodine as soon as possible after birth. Some breeders choose not to do this, preferring to let nature take care of itself. If the umbilical cord is long (over 5cm), you may wish to cut it a little shorter. You can tie with dental floss or similar about an inch below the stomach and then cut a few millimetres below where you have tied. Sometimes the mother will lick and lick the umbilical cord so much that it bleeds, then the mother's instinct is to lick the blood clean, which only makes matters worst. Tie the cord with some dental floss and give the mother a little grain to keep her busy while the bleeding stops.

The new kid/s will quickly try to stand and begin looking for the does teats. We like to make sure the plug in the does teats has been removed - quite often an experienced doe will pull at her teats herself during labour to ensure the plug/s are removed. The kids first attempts to find the teat can be very frustrating as they seem to mouth everywhere but on the actual teat whilst they stumble trying to get used to being on their feet. There is no point trying to force the kids head onto the teat as instinctively it will pull back and try to look elsewhere. It is best to just try and guide it in the right direction, sometimes you can do this by placing your arm at an angle toward the teat so it bobs along eventually getting to the right place. Direct the kid towards the teat which you might want to point toward the kid's mouth to help them find it. It can be a bit difficult to do this and not get in the road, but try putting your hand between the does rear legs from behind and direct the teat toward the kid's mouth.

Watching the kid/s attempt to nurse, or trying to help initially can be really frustrating so you need to be patient. We like to give the new mother a bucket of warm water with a little molasses and a pinch of salt as a pick me up after the birth. Does can loose a lot of heat during labour even in warm weather. We also like to give them some of their favourite feed as well. Most does really appreciate this treat and it gives you a chance to assist the kid to nurse if necessary. Once the kid gets hold of the teat and has had its first taste, they will want to suckle again so its motivation and ability to locate the teat improves rapidly. We like to keep an eye on the mother and kid until the kid/s have suckled several times and have obviously got the idea and strength to do so again. This way you can be fairly confident that it has consumed some of the does colostrum which is essential to set it up for life.

Most does get the idea of a kid suckling very quickly and will encourage it as necessary (or discourage it if she thinks it has had sufficient). Some does however do not get it at all and have no idea what is happening or why this thing keeps trying to mouth her and get hold of her teats. The doe may jump out of the way just as the kid latches on which can be incredibly frustrating for the kid and you! In this case it is best to hold her by the collar and perhaps offer her some of her favourite feed to keep her distracted. Let the kid attach itself to her teat and suckle whilst you have control of the doe. This is often enough for her to get the idea and begin to let the kid/s nurse naturally. The doe will want to see and smell the kid so ensure she can do so. Does will generally sniff the butt of the kid/s to ensure herself that it is in fact hers.

If nothing is working and you have not been able to get the kid to suckle within an hour or so of birth, you might want to milk the doe and make a syringe or bottle for the baby. The does first milk is colostrum, the consistency of which can vary greatly from doe to doe. Some are quite free flowing, others are very thick and sticky. If the consistency is too thick you might want to sit the bottle in warm water to allow it to flow more freely. We find it easiest to use a small syringe (without the needle) on a newborn so that you can VERY gently squirt a little of the colostrum into its mouth if it wont take a small teated bottle. Once the kid has had its first taste it will generally want more and will fight to get it so you can return it to mum and again direct it towards her teat. Once you manage to get the kid sucking, the mother usually settles. It can take time and patience, but most adapte almost immediately.

Somes does get over enthusiastic in their attempts to let the kid/s suckle and may lift their leg whilst the kid gets to her teat. Most does learn quite quickly that they dont need to do this for the kid to be able to nurse.

Once you are sure the kid/s have successfully nursed, appear fit and healthy and the doe is in control it is time to leave them to do their own thing.

The kid suckling also helps to stimulate the doe to pass her afterbirth. We like to keep an eye on the doe in the hours after kidding to ensure she successfully passes the afterbirth. You will often find that the dam may have 'bits' hanging from her vulva at this stage - NEVER attempt to pull this as this can result on serious damage to the doe, leave her to expel it naturally. Some does will attempt to eat the afterbirth, others will ignore it completely. We like to remove the afterbirth from the pen, whilst it is generally thought eating it does the doe no harm, it also does her no particular good either. If the doe does not successfully pass her afterbirth it is adviseable to contact your vet.

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What if the doe won't allow the kid/s to suckle?

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, a doe will refuse to allow one or all of her kids to nurse. It is hard to know whether this might be the result of an issue with the doe herself or with the kid/s. There can be many reasons why a doe may not allow her kid/s to suckle. You should be aware that there is always a possibility that there is a problem with the kid and that if born in the wild, the doe might abandon naturally as it would not survive long term - this is worth bearing in mind in case you bottle feed the kid and it doesnt survive - it may simply not have been meant to survive long term.

If the doe refuses to allow the kid/s to nurse, you should be prepared to bottle feed if you want to give the kid a chance to survive. You can attempt to get another doe to 'adopt' the kid, there are various techniques that can aid in getting this to happen as a doe will rarely allow another does kid to nurse.

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Normal things to look for

What is normal after the birth:
The bottom of the kids hooves will shed their protective white coating shortly after birth.
The first poo that the kid produces will be like a thick black sticky tar. This is called meconium.
After the first few black poo's, the poo will normally change to a mustardy yellow colour and is still quite thick and sticky for about the first week or so. (note: if the mother is not being attentive and cleaning the kid properly this poo can dry like glue. Keep a look out for this and make sure the kid is clean otherwise this can result in the kid having difficulty passing further poop, and an uncomfortable sticky mess).
The kid may poo and pee right after birth, even before it’s first meal.
Sometimes a kids leg/s may take a day or so to straighten fully and work properly.
Your doe should pass her afterbirth once she had finished kidding, normally one per kid, but sometimes there might only be one per kidding even with multiples. If you arent watching the doe and don't see the afterbirth, she may have eaten it. Some breeders prefer to remove the afterbirth to stop it being eaten which, whilst it is thought to do no harm, does no particular good either. This habit is probably a throwback to wild goat behaviour. The doe must pass her afterbirth, if she does not you should seek veterinary attention. The doe will often have bloody type discharges for up to 2-3 weeks after kidding. If you are concerned by any discharge however, you should consult your vet.

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Care of the doe after the birth

Once the kids are okay, turn your attention to the doe. She will have lost a lot of heat during the delivery, even in warm weather. Offer her a bucket of warm water, we like to add a little molasses and a pinch of salt to this. Most of our girls will guzzle many litres of this with great relish, a few of our girls aren't at all interested although if you leave the bucket in the pen overnight it is generally all gone by morning! You might also like to give her a special treat at this time, perhaps some of your best lucerne/hay, her favourite grain or some raisins or a carrot – she has earned it!

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Birthing Positions

There are many illustrations available in books and on the internet that show the various positions of the kids inside the doe. We encourage you to review pictures in advance so you have a mental picture of what may be happening inside your doe. Below are descriptions of some of these positions that the kids may take and whilst not comprehensive will give you some idea of the possibilities.

Normal position (most common). Both front hooves first with the head resting on the front legs pointing forward. The bottom (sole) of the hooves will be pointing down.
Normal position (less common). Rear feet first. (The bottom of the hooves (soles) will be pointing up).
Normal birthing position. Two kids, in normal positions, one after the other.
Breech Birth - Rear end first. It is possible that the doe can birth this position naturally, sometimes she may need assistance.
Not Normal - one front leg bent back. The kid can be delivered this way but is preferable to reach in and locate the second leg and pull it into the normal position.
Not Normal - head bent backwards. Probably one of the trickier positions, particularly if the doe has already been in labour for some time so is exhausted with a weak kid.
Not Normal - Multiple kids are tangled together so are trying to come out at once. Unlikely a doe can deliver normally and the kids need to be untangled so that they can come through one at a time. You may find that one kid is presented head first with it legs back and a second kid's feet and legs have slid under the first kid's head. Since there is no room for the second kid's head it is usually turned back along its side.
Problem - head first with no legs; unlikely a doe can deliver normally this way.

Possible complications if you need to use any invasive technique to assist.
1. infection; if invasion has been extensive or prolonged, may need antibiotics
2. swelling, if excessive may need analgesic
3. tears; either by the doe or the breeder, may require antibiotics and an analgesic
4. depression; if severe, may need a lot of comforting
5. an exceptionally traumatic delivery may require several days of treatment including intrauterine infusion. May need to call your veterinarian

Further readings on birthing positions and assisted births, check out this article.

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How quickly can I breed my doe again after kidding?

Depending on the season, some does may come into heat again very quickly after kidding, even if the are still suckling their kid/s. We have seen does fall pregnant within 3 weeks of having kidded. Even if they do come into heat after they kid (which they may not do) you may be better to wait to breed the doe again. Kidding and lactating take a lot out of a doe and you may be best to allow her time to rest between kiddings. Does seem to do best if they are only bred and kid once a year, although many breeders have kidded their does twice a year - doing that on a regular basis would take a lot out of the doe.

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Kidding Questions

Q) Is it possible to feel the kids moving inside the doe?
A) It is possible to feel the kid/s, more likely the later in the pregnancy it is. You can sometimes feel them under the belly, or on the right side - you might feel them squirming or just a lump which might be a hoof. Any movement on the left side may just be the rumen gurgling!

Q) How many kids is the doe likely to have?
A) Multiples are very common in goats and it is most likely that she will have between 1 and 3 kids. Twins are probably the most common, single is probably the next most common although not unusual for first fresheners. We find many of our first timers have a single kid, but have twins in subsequent kiddings. Triplets is not uncommon in a healthy doe. It is not unknown for some breeds to have 4 or sometimes 5 kids, we have only heard of this a few times in the world of Australian Miniature Goats at this time.

Q) How long before kidding will my doe develop her udder?
A) This can vary significantly from one doe to another, and also from one kidding to the next.
We tend to find that we can feel our first timers start to feel a bit 'fleshy' at about 2.5 months into their pregnancy, however an inexperienced breeder may not notice this change until some time later. When we say feel 'fleshy' that is exactly what we mean, you may not be able to see this visually until about one month prior to kidding. First timers also often tend to have a smaller udder than at second or subsequent kiddings. Second and subsequent kidders may begin to develop at about this same time, or may wait until very close to kidding.

Just Kiddin
Mini Goats

Care of your pregnant goat (doe).